Most of these pieces are actually pretty close to traditional Heian era garments - I'm using Reconstructing History's Heian men's clothing pattern as a base for most of it.
-Kosode: This is really only visible on the concept/reference art - on the in-game sprites, it only shows as the innermost white collar at his neckline. Important, though, because this is what actually covers your arms and sides! His is pretty much the same as historical versions, or a slight varation on a modern kimono - narrower body, no front tuck, ends about knee-length I'm using a white cotton sateen because I had a bunch already, and I'm a sweaty person so I need an under-layer that's machine washable. Mostly done already because I can sew kimono in my sleep, practically.
-Hitoe: The white layer that's mostly visible, right under the blue one. It's pretty close to Heian hitoe, with two exceptions, both in the sleeve area - one is that the sleeves look to be all one piece, instead of made up of two pieces (which is more an artifact of traditional Japanese fabric widths than anything), and then the sleeves are open on the bottom and wrist edge, as well as the body edge. So I'm going to take the traditional hitoe pattern, cut the sleeves as one block, and then line them because the edges are super-visible when they're open like that and I have enough hemming as it is. I think I'm going to buy some white polyester chirimen (chirimen is a type of tight crepe weave that is easily the most common fabric used for kimono). Normally I'd buy a bolt of vintage kimono silk from Ichiroya - you can get them for ~$50 plus shipping, and they're 15m or so - but 1) a lot of the whites tend to have discolored with age and 2) they're traditional width, which is about 15" and thus too narrow for me to do the sleeves in one piece for. Thankfully Tomato has 44" polyester chirimen for ~$14/m on their Rakuten store.
-Kariginu: The giant blue monstrosity. Like the hitoe, this mostly only differs from the traditional cut in having single-piece sleeves that are open all the way around. I'm lining the whole thing because there are a lot of visible edges/insides, and I have the feeling the fabric I'm using is going to be fray-tastic. It's a royal blue brocade with the sayagata pattern woven in - it's a little bigger, with slightly thicker lines than the patterning on Mikazuki's kariginu, but honestly, it's probably as close as you're going to get without actually weaving your own (don't do that, please). Okuyama sells it online, though I was lucky enough that a friend was willing to pick some up in person for me when she was in Tokyo last month, which saved me a bunch on shipping. My sewing project for today, I think!
-Hakama: The only part of this that isn't mostly-Heian in style. Hakama were part of Heian ensembles, but they had fewer pleats than modern styles, and were waaaay longer so they could be gathered up at the ankles and have a nice poof. The pleat arrangement and length on Mikazuki's place them pretty solidly in 'modern' (19th century to present) style. Round Earth's hakama pattern is my go-to for that, though I may leav off the backboard (which is solidly a 20th century martial arts addition). I'm airbrushing the gradient on a heavy matte polyester satin, which, uh, is an adventure. And probably a whole post to itself at some point.
Next time: armor, armor, and more armor!
It is the year of our lord 2017, and we sure are still Homestuck Trash.
Katsucon Barstuck, Running of the Fantrolls
Comment with your tumblr/fantroll name!
(Far left of the big group shot - I look suitably ashamed of the hot mess that my wig is there)
What I have left to do:
- crests on bracers
- finish painting the chestplate
- an entire haori
- attach horns to wig + style bangs
- detailing on prosthetic hand pieces
- paint all prosthetic arm parts
- assemble arm
- collar pins
- finish styling wig
I thought I was pretty on top of stuff but sitting here looking at this is just like *screams inside*
It’s been a while since my last WIP post, huh? I started a new job in early October, which is exciting but also very time consuming, and honestly fall is kind of my chill season for cons - I made a new JSK for Teslacon, but that was it.
But! Katsucon is just over two months away, and I’ve already started working on new stuff for that. Current line-up:
- HS!Toshi for fantrolls group (because an AU of an AU of a historical fiction series is very nearly an OC, honestly)
- Yamatonokami Yasusada (hopefully with a new haori and armor)
- Impa from Ocarina of Time
- Katakura Kojuro in Gakuen Basara flavor
…and I might do CCP or Jiji’s internal affairs outfit for chilling in the evening, if I have time. We’ll see.
Edge lace for my sleeves - I did this on my embroidery machine, on a poly organza with heavy wash-away stabilizer, and then cut the diamonds out and hand-sewed them on.
After much experimenting, the tricks to using metallic thread without it snapping are to keep tension super-low, let the thread spool out from far away (I have it in a mug about a foot away), and don’t make your stitches too dense.
Haven’t been posting much about cosplay, but I’ve been working on stuff so expect some photos over the next few days.
Tonight’s lesson: sometimes you have to try something, and fail… and try something else, and fail… and then keep trying to get it right. Four iterations of rosettes later, I’m finally happy.
Progress work on my jacket for Jade! I drafted the pattern Saturday afternoon, spent Saturday night and most of Sunday dyeing white twill the appropriate shade of dark teal, and then started assembling it yesterday. The front closure on this design is so weird….
Very proud of the dye - it took three rounds and four different colors to finally hit what I wanted, so I think I’m justified in that :T Next up: a million yards of twill bias tape.
Cosplay WIP - West Witch, Hat
Frankly the part of this costume I’m most proud of, because I had never made any kind of hat before and it turned out really nicely! I didn’t get all the trim done in time, but that’s easy enough to fix now that it’s not Katsu-crunch. Eternal thanks to @elementalsight who held my hand and offered lots of advice and help while I flailed over this.
Cosplay WIP - West Witch, Skirt Painting
I managed to take photos really quick while I was working on stuff, but did not have time/energy to upload them before Katsu (or even right after Katsu, haha). The underskirt edges were airbrushed, because I make a lot of poor choices but I wasn’t going to let hand-painting 30 yard of hems be one of them. I made some stencils/masks out of plastic, spaced with little wire loops (so that I could spray in between them without the wire blocking off fabric). I used basting spray to hold them down on the fabric, because it cleans up with soap and water if things got gummy. It took a good eight to ten hours to do both the layers.
The top skirt was mostly freehanded - I made some attempts at stencils but they didn’t give me the quality I wanted, so I ended up making a basic template to trace the outline off of using tracing paper, and then sat with a brush and painted in all forty of them. I ended up using part of a Gutterman thread spool to stamp the circles, because my ability to freehand circles with a paintbrush is basically non-existant. This took another eight hours or so total (which explains why I didn’t get a bunch of other stuff finished in time)
help me I am in fabric hellllll
More feathers - I don’t have the energy for a full write-up but basically, for whatever reason, the batch of feathers we got do not want to take up dye. All the tutorials are like ‘just swish them around for a few minutes’, and the two left hand groups in that photos were in the dye baths for a good two hours. The ones on the right I left soaking overnight and then heated up, which finally actually made them more or less the right color and shade.
In sewing, trying to stitch cording in an even geometric pattern across a surface that curves in more than one direction is… basically impossible, really, but you can fudge the sizing some. After a few attempts at laying it out with pins or straight edges, I made a little square of card (actually a business card I had in my wallet, I was in class and going stir-crazy), and started marking out the corners with loops of thread. Tedious, but it works. I have about half the cord down - hopefully I can get the rest done tomorrow. I also turned and ironed the hems of the scalloped underskirts. They still need to be painted, but they’re looking pretty good.
Finally, some fabric porn from my better camera - like I said before, my point and shoot doesn’t really capture the colors (for ex, look at the corset photos), and even the DSLR doesn’t get the full depth of the dupioni in a single shot. But man, is it gorgeous.
Emerging briefly from under my piles of fabric with evidence that I am actually working on things. Stuff being dyed (these fucking feathers, man), giant pile of underskirt hems, overskirt at a super awkward angle, inner layers for the corset. The dupioni I’m using for the overskirt and corset is gorgeous but does not photograph well with my point and shoot.
Cosplay Progress - fancytier Aradia and West Witch
Yaaaay Aradia’s almost done - just need to make wings and the little gear buttons for the cuffs and garter ends. The beading on the shirt turned out… decently (the flash shine makes it kind of hard to see). Boots were some grey Ugg-knockoffs that were $20 on Amazon - I took out the back seam, poked holes with an exacto knife, and then used one of my tapestry needles to thread the charmeuse ‘ribbon’ through. The soles are painted with red Angelus leather paint, which held up well on the sandals I did for D*C
Meanwhile, in Sakizou land: giant bling, giant hat, giant skirt. Making molds of the rhinestones right now so I can make copies in the colors I need, and then I sketched out the underskirt border on one of my muslin panels to get an idea of the size.
God I have so much to do still fffffff